My life in Cairo is remembered in sights, sounds and smells but mostly in the deep Arab emotion that soaks daily life like a syrup, the emotion that is ruled by an ornate network of social customs. Of all the experiences I had during my time in Egypt, the Cairo Metro was one of the few peeks into the life behind the headscarf, into the intricate and intimate world of Egyptian womanhood. Cairo is a city of contradictions, balanced perilously between the new and old. It stands